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Bill’s build info:

I started with a brand new Losi Baja Rey! Some obvious upgrades included upper and lower front A arms. Which were purchased from Mike over at Metal Concepts RC. He also built the custom rear axle, and he carries a range of custom machined parts for the Axial Yeti, Losi Baja Rey, and other scale RC rigs!

The Body used was Pro-Line’s Axial Score Raptor Body from their Yeti Score Trophy Truck. The Yeti wheel base is shorter than the stock Losi Baja Rey. So in order to properly fit this body, I had to shorten the rear trailing arms by almost an inch.  So I picked up a set of Axial Bomber rear trailing arms which worked perfect! I also had to swap the upper rear links to the shorter wraith links, which gave me the correct geometry I needed.

I swapped out the stock electronics for the new Tekin Rx8 G3 esc, that’s paired with their 3500hd motor (14th pinion) I’m Running it with a SMC 4500mah 3S Lipo (deans) this is the skinnear 3s pack that mimics the size of a standard 2s pack. It has a 90c rating which is perfect for the Tekin system! I’m using a ProTek servo glued to the ground with the RTR Yeti Score BFG Tires and wheels. They look super scale and actually handle my heavy 12lb trophy truck with ease! Shocks are also provided by Pro-Line with their big bore adjustable shocks! Running the Tlr 40wt in front and rear. Secret spring combos!

Cage was tig welded using my Miller Multimatic 215. Using 1/16 tungsten and stubby gas lens kit. Amps ranged typically between 30-60amps with a post flow rate set at 10-15. Any filler metal I used was 1/16 filler rod. The Cage material is 3/16 cold rolled steel rod which I purchased from my local Temecula metal supply store (Tuscer Metals) Instead of powder coating the cage, other custom trophy truck builders informed me of this product called “Steel it”! Which is basically a powder coating finish in a rattle can. The best part about this product is that you can literally weld directly over it. So if down the road I need to add a cross brace, replace a bumper, or repair a shock mount. Zero prep is needed. I don’t need to remove the finish. And I can re-spray right over the weld once I’m finished! I did however paint over it with black spray paint. I didn’t have to do this, but I preferred the stealth look! I skinned the cage with scale panels I made from 1/16 Black polycarbonate Lexan. And they’re mounted by welding on individual 6/32 square nuts (Pain in the a$$) especially when you had to go over each nut with a tap in order to clean the threads! Over 100 nuts!!!The front bumper and rear break light bars were provided from Gear Head RC! Super bright and run directly to the receiver. 

The roof light bar utilizes 8 individual RC4WD Baja Designs pod lights. Individually mounted, soldered together, and plugged directly into receiver. I was pretty stoked how they turned out. Considering I hadn’t seen anyone else use those particular lights in that configuration. I hope it inspires more RC enthusiasts to go out and try the same! Most accessories were purchased via eBay or RPP Hobby. Including fire extinguishers and decals. I live in CA and have been in the hobby since I was a kid. I raced locally at SDRC a few times. 










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1 Comment

  1. Hayden Faulk

    Hey, it’s Epic 1/10 r.c. Studio. I have a few questions about the losi baja rey front a arms and hub carriers. Do you know if the MC upper losi front arms fit their TS10 lower arms? I really want the gull wing style arms, and to still have and upper arms to. Second, how well do the losi hubs hold up, and what about the barrings? I will get the MC upgraded ones to head off any breakage and for the metal addition. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP.


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