FAN FRIDAY FEATURED BUILD BY TIM CHAN
Tim’s build info;
The main goal of this build is to achieve ultra-realism not only as a static model, but also pursuing the stance and motion of a real car when it is running. The ultimate performance of the car is my last concern. With a Tamiya RC chassis and Lexan body, achieving this goal will not be a straightforward build out of the box. With trial and error here and there, I would like to share my experience hoping it can assist someone who wants to build a similar model. Tamiya offers a long damper mount option, as the name suggests, allows using longer dampers. The standard setup of the car, same as all Tamiya car chassis generally, only allows limited suspension travel, which can make the car quite bouncy and skippy in action, totally unrealistic. Also, Tamiya’s dampers and springs are of large diameter which also ruin the realism inside the wheel arches. By using the long damper mounts, I managed to fit in 80mm scale crawler shocks with 2 rate springs (by RC4WD). This gives a longer suspension travel distance and allow a droop setup. To make it work you will need to do some fiddling with bump stop etc. to control the range of the travel. Also it will require additional weight added to the car to settle the car in the droop position, which I shall further explain below. One of the issues that contributes to the unreal motion of Tamiya cars is the lack of weight. I add quite a lot of weight to the car, particular to the rear, because the XV01 chassis is front motor so the majority of the weight is over the front axle. Also, adding weight to all the wheels to damp the motion of the suspension to add realism in action. The main advantage of using the Killerbody’s shell, instead of the Tamiya’s, is that Killerbody comes with all light buckets which makes lighting up the car much easier. The Tamiya’s shell is not designed to be lighted up at all, so it will require lots of work and alternation if. But generally, I think the overall shape of the Tamiya body is better.By upgrading to aluminum hubs, steering knuckles, wishbones, and adding brake system trying to lift the realism of the model. Fitting the brake kit means the Tamiya plastic wheels cannot be fitted because there are reinforcing fins inside the Tamiya wheels, which would clash with the brake. So, I used aftermarket wheels, again choosing aluminum product trying to life the realistic appearance.Magnetic stealth body mount have been used in order to avoid the exposed mounts and clips, which is one of the main things to ruin realism. Not very secure and can be knocked off position quite easily, but as mentioned before, this build does not concern anything else other than realism. Another obvious issue ruining realism is the totally empty space behind the thin body shell, which can easily be seen around the wheel arches. I used sticky sponge (maybe there is a proper name?) to fill the space, so you don’t see the eye soring empty space in photos. Other details such as exhaust pipe, adding shadow line to panel gap, painted interior kit, self-made sticker for the front and rear badge, license plates etc. all help to deliver the scaled look.